[HanCinema's Korea Diaries] Between Extremes: The Unobtainable "Golden Mean"?

I once read that the measure of a civilised nation can be ascertained by examining the way in which it treats its animals. In which case Korea might be considered as advanced as their technological innovations as more companies and stores are considering their customer's pets into the services they can provide. In addition, dog grooming has resulted in an array of alternations of a dog's appearance and look, all seemingly in service to their owner's pleasure and societies value systems. However, it's no secret that Korea also indulges itself with a few dog meat dishes every now and again, an industry operating within no functioning animals rights to speak of and often cited by animal rights groups as unacceptable and cruel. Both of these extremes have given animal activists and watch groups cause for concern, as animals (particularly dogs) in Korea continue to exist on the whims and wills of a society that can't seem to find a healthy middle ground for them.

Pet owners in Korea have now reach the 10 million mark and companies and brand chain stores are responding by providing a range of services extend beyond the ordinary (veterinary hospitals, grooming facilities, and designated playgrounds) to the controversial inclusion of dog strollers and speciality cafés that cater exclusively for dog and cat lovers. Pet grooming is a particularly interesting phenomenon that allows their owners to colour, crop and create a unique look for their furry friend.

Spudgy, for example, is the popular mascot of the highly successful blogging duo from EatYourKimchi. Spudgy is often seen sporting a green Mohawk and the couple frequently share with their audience changes in his appearance. Spudgy is not alone though; many small dog breeds in Korea are subjected to the fashionable, or not-so-fashionable, considerations of their owners.

And while I don't personally condone the 'pimp-my-pet' craze in Korea, it remains an interesting point of departure from which to examine Korea's animal culture in general. Pet grooming seems largely restricted to small breeds that can fit in handbags and that can easily be held in one arm. It all seems to fall under the guise of Korea's love for anything small, cutesy and, sadly, superficial. Larger breeds seem to be excluded from this apparent boom, perhaps due to the inconvenience of having to make the dog-strollers in their size, or to fork out the cost of large amounts hair dye, or, hopefully, the simple realisation that they are, in fact, dogs.

Whether or not you personally approve of such practices, one would be forgiven for thinking that life, as dog, in Korea is peachy. If you are of the right size (and remain so), appear to fit someone's definition of 'cute', and don't bark, you might be in for the time of your life. If, however, you have the unfortunate luck of being a larger dog, you may find Korea less welcoming, especially if you are, say, of the Nureongi variety.

Summer will be hitting Korea soon enough and with those sweltering temperatures comes the demand for soup, dog soup to be precise. Nureongi dogs are bigger, yellowish, creatures that are breed for human consumption. They are not commonly kept as pets and thus do not get invited to have tea or have their coats colored. Dog meat is the main ingredient in dishes such as Boshintang (literally "invigorating soup"), which is a seasonal soup that is said to improve one's virility. The Korean government doesn't seem to be particularly proud of this historically induced dish, as back in 1988 they urged citizens to refrain from eating to avoid scrutiny from international travellers and animal watch groups. Eating dog isn't a rampant affair, one must remember, but its does exist and the regulatory policies governing it seem to exist within a cruel offshoot of the countries lack of satisfactory animal rights.

Tolerance of normal doggy behaviour also seems to be paper-thin. Last year a Korean monk took an axe to his neighbors dog because it was barking obsessively. In another incident a driver was seen and apprehended for dragging a dog till its death on the motorway, in both case no one was not charged. Many animal rights groups are actively involved in getting major policy changes passed that would give rights to animals in Korea, but at present animals are considered property but the law and Korean society, nothing more.

Outside of these two extremes (sipping on dog and splurging on them) lays the possibility of a 'golden mean', as it were. Factors such as Korea's geographical landscape and population distribution discourage things like proper dog socialisation (drinking coffee in Seoul café shouldn't really count) as well as suitable locations for exercise and play. Korea has some stunning public parks squeezed in and around their rows of apartment complexes and business blocks. Most parks discourage, even outright prevent, dogs from running around off or on a leash, and I have even been reprimanded for letting my dog run on the grass. Indeed, Korea's hubs are heavily governed by rules and regulations that hinder such activites (such is the need when we consider the pure volume of people that have to coexist in the relatively small spaces available), but that doesn't deflate the very real barrier dogs and other animals have on living, at least what I would consider, a healthy and happy existence.

Things in the home suffer much the same problem as the average Korean living space is very modest at best. They do not have the luxury of claiming expansive properties (even modest ones at that) on which animals can get the require exercise required, that is also why smaller breeds are favoured. That said the spaces between and around these apartments and office blocks are also not ideal to have animals running around on. Korea surprised me as being quite clean, but no one can dispute the fact that tarred roads and spit-stained streets aren't a dogs dream locale, let alone being recommended by SPCA. As mentioned Korea does have a good number of parks (really they're amazing!), but I know first hand that unless you live right next to one of them a dogs activity levels can be severely hindered. Yes, smaller breeds would require less exercise, but the quality is just as important as the quantity, an unfortunate fact that has animals come out on the short end. They don't know any better, but we do.

The purpose of this article was to problematise the quality of dogs' life in Korea. Historical and cultural factors have imposed a cultural acceptance of raising specific breeds for consumption, and the nature of Korea's infrastructure serious effects the spaces these animals can make use of. More modern influences have led to dogs being beautified and made to somehow 'fit' into Korea's own image-orientated culture. We see this through chains like E-mart and Lotte Mart catering towards pet owners (not pets), as well as this culture of designer dogs and the fashions they are subjected to. Somewhere between these two responses must lay a place where dogs are neither seen as seasonal produce, personal property or accessories.

It is perhaps my own experience with animals that lends me frown upon how they are treated in Korea. In my own personal view they are not small dolls to be made up or styled, nor are they to be treated like livestock and confined to small apartments. Policy changes would go a long way to not only outline laws and practices around animal control and rights, but they would also help steer the public towards a loving respect for them within a measured middle-ground.

To return to my opening thoughts, if we were to measure Korea by the manner in which it treats its animals, where would it be? Constructive comments and thoughts are welcomed!

- C.J Wheeler (chriscjw@gmail.com)

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